The Albanian Riviera
Early in the morning, before the tourist crowds arrive and when the rocks are still tinged in the yellow dawn light, you might just imagine that the…
The Albanian Riviera
Early in the morning, before the tourist crowds arrive and when the rocks are still tinged in the yellow dawn light, you might just imagine that the…
Gjirokastra
Gjirokastra's eerie hilltop castle is one of the biggest in the Balkans. There's been a fortress here since the 12th century, although much of what can be…
The Albanian Riviera
Between Dhërmi and Vuno is the turn-off for this little-known gem, a gorgeous stretch of isolated white sand and rock backed by big cliffs – and as yet…
Gjirokastra
This incredible three-storey house dates from 1811 and has twin towers and a double-arched facade. It's fascinating to nose around the almost unchanged…
Gjirokastra
Gjirokastra's most interesting sight in no way relates to traditional architecture, but instead to a far more modern kind: this is a giant bunker built…
The Albanian Riviera
One of the more attractive beaches on the Albanian Riviera is Drymades. It's a long, shingle white beach backed by olive groves and the first stirrings of…
Gjirokastra
The lovingly restored Ottoman-era Skenduli House has been in the hands of the same family for generations (apart from a few years during the communist…
The Albanian Riviera
Dhërmi beach is well and truly under the tourist trance in summer: expect booked-out accommodation, loud music and half of Tirana sprawled on the stones…
Gjirokastra
This interesting museum is a beautifully lit and presented, fully English-signed display on the long and fascinating history of the town. Some highlights…
The Albanian Riviera
There are two main beaches in Himara. The northern one is the main town beach and has a promenade lined with cafes and bars. Around the headland to the…
The Albanian Riviera
Watch clouds descending onto the mountain, shepherds on the plains guiding their herds, and thick forests where deer, wild boar and wolves roam in this…
The Albanian Riviera
Floating off the coast of the remote Karaburun Peninsula, 5.7 sq km Sazan Island is little known to even most Albanians. Once used as a submarine and…
The Albanian Riviera
Jal beach, a 5km drive down a decent side-road from the village of Vumoni, has been well and truly 'discovered' in the last few years and an ever…
The Albanian Riviera
In a picturesque bay just south of Himara, this 19th-century fortress, also known as the Castle of Ali Pasha, makes for an interesting stop-off along the…
Gjirokastra
As well as photos of the partisan resistance against the Italians and a vast number of rifles and machine guns, it's possible to visit the cells where…
The Albanian Riviera
The last relatively undeveloped spot on the Albanian Riviera, before the urban sprawl of Saranda begins, is Bunec. The pebbly beach is divided in two by a…
The Albanian Riviera
Himara's longest stretch of beach is Livadhi, just north of the town. It's certainly very attractive but development hasn't been kind, with a slew of…
Saranda
Housed in Saranda's old customs house overlooking the town wharf, this interesting museum contains many fascinating photographs from the communist era,…
The Albanian Riviera
Himara is mainly known for its beaches, but its Old Town on the hills high above the seafront is an interesting place to stroll around. One highlight is…
The Albanian Riviera
Vuno is a tiny hillside village above picturesque Jal beach. Each summer Vuno's primary school is filled with blow-up beds and it becomes Shkolla Hostel…
The Albanian Riviera
Borsch is a huge, sweeping white-stone beach that is several kilometres long. While it's still far from over-run with development, it's hardly…
Gjirokastra
This museum houses local homewares and was built on the site of Enver Hoxha's former house, in the middle of the Old Town. Its collection is interesting…
Gjirokastra
The 'Neck of the Bazaar' makes up the centre of the Old Town but what were once artisanal workshops are today mainly tourist souvenir shops. There are a…
Saranda
This excellent gallery overlooking the seafront has high-quality temporary exhibits, with many works coming down from the National Gallery in Tirana.
Saranda
These ruins of a 5th-century synagogue are located right in the heart of town and provide evidence of one of the earliest Balkan-Jewish communities. There…
The Albanian Riviera
As you zigzag down the mountain from the Llogaraja Pass National Park, the white crescent-shaped beaches and azure waters lure you from below. The first…
Saranda
This former castle is now a very average restaurant, but come here for the superb views over Saranda and Butrint lagoon, especially at sunset. A taxi here…
Saranda
This one-room museum houses a well-preserved 3rd-century mosaic floor and has a display about the nearby ruins at Butrint. It's one block behind the…