How to spend the ultimate weekend in Detroit

Long a center for design, art and architecture, industry and music, Detroit is one of America’s most intriguing cities. I fell in love with its soaring art deco skyscrapers, fascinating history and fierce spirit on my first visit in 2013, and every trip since has shown me something new. Start your own Detroit journey with this itinerary focused on the city’s downtown core, which has experienced remarkable revitalization over the past decade.

• When to arrive: May to September are the prime months to visit Detroit, as spring can be cold and rainy and winters colder and snowy.

• How to get from the airport: DTW is about 20 miles from downtown, so rideshares can be pricey. The Detroit Air XPress ($6 in advance, $8 on the bus) will get you there in about 40 minutes, with departures every 90 minutes. If you’re not in a hurry, you can take the FAST Michigan 261 for just $2 – these buses take over an hour to get downtown.

• Getting around town: The home of Ford, Chrysler and GM was built for cars, so driving is the most efficient way to get from A to B: downtown alone covers 7.2 square miles. However, you can get to most central attractions with the QLINE, city buses and the occasional rideshare.

• Where to stay: Many of Detroit’s historic buildings are now boutique hotels that make for memorable stays. My top recommendations are the Detroit Foundation Hotel, featuring locally designed decor in a former fire station; The Siren Hotel for its art nouveau glam and swanky bar; or the Victorian charm of The Inn on Ferry Street. 

• What to pack: The Midwest is notoriously casual and Detroit is no exception. While you’ll see people dressed more formally at upscale restaurants and bars, you won’t stand out in jeans and a sweatshirt. If you want to go to Canada, don’t forget your passport.

Friday

Morning: Start your weekend in Detroit at Michigan Central Station. Long a symbol of Detroit’s decline, the towering 1913 building – designed by the same firm that built New York City’s Grand Central Station – has been renovated by Ford. Book a guided tour to get the full story. Yellow Light Coffee will have a location in the station by the end of 2024; worthy nearby breakfast options include Folk and Summer Town Fresh Bar.

How to spend the day: Wander a few blocks up to Corktown (Michigan Ave, between Rosa Parks Blvd and 17th St), one of the first neighborhoods to bounce back in the early 2000s with the opening of hotspots like Slows Bar BQ and The Sugar House. Stroll the strip and pick a restaurant for a sure to be satisfying lunch.

If the weather is good, head over to Belle Isle, in the middle of the Detroit River, for a day of trail-walking or cycling. The whole island is a park, and it’s a terrific spot for families. Don’t miss the aquarium – the 1904 beaux arts building, by renowned Detroit architect Albert Kahn, may be more impressive than the fish. Its vaulted ceiling, seamlessly covered in glowing green opaline glass tiles, makes you feel like you’re underwater.

Rainy day? Go get lost in John K. King Books, a used and rare bookstore in a former glove factory that now houses more than 1 million titles across four stories.

Dinner: Detroit’s fine dining scene is still somewhat small compared to similar cities, but it’s starting to pop. SheWolf Pastificio & Bar has the best Italian food this side of Rome, plus a remarkable wine list.

After dark: Castalia at Sfumato is a memorable spot for a post-dinner drink. A perfume shop by day, this tiny space in the basement of a Victorian mansion serves up picture-perfect cocktails inspired by its fragrances at night.

Saturday

Morning: Grab an egg sandwich from the walk-up window at Iggy’s Eggies and walk down to the spot where Detroit’s famous Mile Roads are measured from: Campus Martius Park. The park is also the departure point for the 10am walking tour of downtown Detroit with Preservation Tours ($18), which includes architectural marvels like the Guardian Building, once the tallest in the world, and history tidbits from Detroit’s storied past.

How to spend the day: After your walking tour, order a classic Detroit coney dog from Lafayette Coney Island and rest your feet before hopping the free QLINE to the Fisher Building, another Albert Kahn triumph. Book a guided tour with Pure Detroit ($15), or simply grab a coffee, wander the shops in the arcade and admire the intricate mosaics by Hungarian artist Géza Maróti. Then walk over to the Motown Historical Museum, which tells the story of Berry Gordy’s legendary independent record label and the genre of music it created. One-hour guided tours ($20) must be booked in advance; the final Saturday tour is at 7pm.

Dinner: Lean in to today’s Motor City theme with some Detroit-style pizza at a local spot like Michigan & Trumbull or PieSci Pizza. Thick, chewy crust, with a focaccia-like texture and crispy edges, is the trademark of this style, and both restaurants offer gluten-free and vegan options.

After dark: Continue exploring Detroit’s music scene with a nightcap at Cafe D'Mongo's Speakeasy, a warm, quirky dive that’s been entertaining the city since 1985. Soul and jazz acts are on the docket each weekend.

Sunday

Morning: It’s been a busy weekend, so reward yourself with a decadent brunch at The Whitney ($69), a massive 1894 Romanesque revival mansion commissioned by lumber baron David Whitney Jr. Tour the mansion and the grounds after your meal.

How to spend the day: Pop across the street to one of the world’s most fascinating museums, the Detroit Institute of Arts ($20). The Diego Rivera Detroit Industry frescoes are, of course, a must-see, but the museum also houses an impressive collection of American art. 

Once you’re done getting lost among the 100 galleries, have a late (light) lunch at the cozy Kitab Cafe and Bookstore. Walk down Willis St to 3rd Ave, then turn right on W. Canfield St for a glimpse of what Detroit looked like before the automobile along the West Canfield Historic District, a one-block stretch of 1800s upper-middle-class homes. Continue toward Woodward Ave to browse local shops, including Shinola, City Bird, Source Booksellers and Third Man Records. Nab a sweet treat at inventive chocolatier Bon Bon Bon.

Dinner: If you’re staying through the evening, consider joining Detroit’s Hare Krishna community at their weekly Sunday Feast (free, 6pm). Their temple is the former home of Lawrence Fisher, one of seven brothers who amassed an auto-body manufacturing fortune. The 50-room 1928 mansion blends Spanish, Moorish and Renaissance styles – now accented with an impressive collection of Hare Krishna art and artifacts. Tours are at 4pm and 6:30pm on Sunday ($15 suggested donation).

Finally, head home with a renewed appreciation for this remarkable American city – and plan to return to explore its outer boroughs (Hamtramck! Ferndale! Royal Oak!), see a football, basketball or baseball game, or visit regional treasures like Ford House, the Dearborn Historical Museum, Greenfield Village or Cranbrook House.